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In 2014, columnist Émilie Régnier photographed women in the adorableness salons of Abidjan, Ivory Coast. Her ambition was simple: to accord her capacity amplitude to advertise their aces hair. 

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The images’ impressions, however, aren’t absolutely so unambiguous. “For atramentous women, beard is political,” Régnier told The Huffington Post. With her series, dubbed “Hair,” the columnist hoped to analyze the access of African-American ability and media on West African women, as bidding through the artful ritual of accepting dolled up.

“There has been a big movement against accustomed atramentous hair, and abroad from wigs or annihilation artificial,” the columnist expressed. “But personally, I don’t anticipate these women are cerebration about the political aspect, they aloof appetite to attending good.” 

When Régnier aboriginal entered a bounded salon, she accepted to commence on a photo activity revolving about atramentous women who acclimated articles to achromatize their skin. However, her eyes afflicted advance afterwards she addled through the attending books on-site, which boastful assorted ‘dos for barter to accept and advance upon. 

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“I’ve been in West Africa for about eight years,” Régnier explained. “Once a abode becomes familiar, you don’t see aggregate you acclimated to. But I aback noticed, these women had amazing hair.” Beyond authentic style, the hairstyles aflame the countless cultural influences abstraction the ascendant trends, as able-bodied as the concrete standards of adorableness women about the apple feel accountable to embody.

In Ivory Coast, women abide a array of treatments and procedures to authorize as a “go” ― or a attractive babe ― Régnier explained. “Hairstyle is the advantage of the ‘go-choc,’” she said in an artisan statement. As a result, women generally advance their accumulation in revamping their tresses, through highlights, extensions, dye, and wigs. 

Régnier saw beard as a agent of communication, cogent bond understandings of identity, adorableness and ability for abounding bounded women. As the artisan put it: “I approved to deflate the absolute African-American influence, the allotment owed to globalization, and the allotment apropos to the African adaptation of advice apparent on television.” 

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Régnier was aggressive by iconic Nigerian columnist Okhai Ojeikere ― who actual Nigerian women’s convolute braided styles ― as able-bodied as Ivory Coast’s bounded attending book photographers, who had created their own cast of allure shot. She accomplished out to one of said able photographers and asked to become his assistant.

In the appearance of best Ivorian artery photographers, Régnier traversed the burghal with a camera about her neck, snapping the adventuresome styles that women ability after appetite to don for themselves. Such photos are usually again awash for about one dollar each, to hairdressers who put them into their attending books for approaching audience to analyze and select.

Although the alternation is not candidly political, Régnier captures moments of freedom, confidence, artistic announcement and airs for women of color. Given the adorableness industry’s proclivity against artful standards of whiteness, the alternation can’t advice but booty a political stance. “As a woman of blush myself, I can’t advice but anticipate of colonialism,” Régnier said. “The way women were fabricated to appetite to accept albino hair.”

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Today, however, Régnier empiric that her audience assume somewhat removed from the political underpinnings of their appearance choices. “Women of West Africa aren’t cerebration about white colonization that occurred 60 years ago back they abrasion a wig. They accost it,” she said.

The alternation frames women of color’s hairstyles as absolute about amid barmy appearance and political statement. Political influence, claimed taste, cultural trends, and amusing cachet generally assemble to crop a chichi bob, mohawk or weave. As the artisan said: “All the hairstyles represent a admixture amid African-American access and African interpretations.”

Although Régnier’s photos allege volumes about the accord amid atramentous women and hair, back the artisan asked her capacity about why they chose assertive styles, the responses were almost straightforward. “They capital to attending like Rihanna or Beyoncé,” Régnier said. “Even that was a bit too apparent for them.”

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“From Mobutu to Beyoncé” by Émilie Régnier is at the Bronx Documentary Center from April 15 through June 4.

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